:root {
  --ink: #24302c;
  --muted: #66736d;
  --paper: #f8f3ea;
  --soft: #efe5d8;
  --card: #fffdf8;
  --accent: #715235;
  --accent-dark: #4f3824;
  --green: #465f43;
  --blue: #2f4d5a;
  --line: #e4d9ca;
  --shadow: 0 24px 70px rgba(37, 31, 24, 0.12);
  --shadow-soft: 0 12px 45px rgba(37, 31, 24, 0.07);
  --radius: clamp(14px, 2vw, 22px);
  --max: 1180px;
  --page-pad: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 2rem);
  --section-y: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 5rem);
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }

html {
  scroll-behavior: smooth;
  text-size-adjust: 100%;
}

body {
  margin: 0;
  min-width: 320px;
  font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  line-height: 1.6;
}

img,
svg {
  max-width: 100%;
  display: block;
}

img {
  height: auto;
}

a {
  color: inherit;
  text-underline-offset: 4px;
}

h1,
h2,
h3,
p,
li {
  overflow-wrap: break-word;
}

.skip-link {
  position: absolute;
  left: -999px;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 99;
  background: var(--ink);
  color: #fff;
  padding: .75rem 1rem;
}

.skip-link:focus {
  left: 1rem;
  top: 1rem;
}

.site-header {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  align-items: center;
  gap: clamp(1rem, 3vw, 2rem);
  padding: 1rem clamp(1rem, 4vw, 4rem);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: rgba(248, 243, 234, 0.96);
  position: sticky;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 10;
  backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
}

.brand {
  display: grid;
  gap: .05rem;
  text-decoration: none;
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  white-space: nowrap;
  line-height: 1.1;
}

.brand span {
  font-weight: 700;
  font-size: clamp(1.12rem, 2.2vw, 1.35rem);
}

.brand small {
  font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: .14em;
  font-size: .68rem;
  color: var(--muted);
}

nav {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: .85rem 1rem;
  justify-content: flex-end;
  font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
}

nav a {
  color: var(--ink);
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: .95rem;
  line-height: 1.2;
}

nav a:hover,
nav a[aria-current="page"] {
  color: var(--accent);
  text-decoration: underline;
}

.hero {
  width: min(1500px, 100%);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: clamp(1.25rem, 4vw, 4rem);
}

.hero-split {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, .88fr) minmax(360px, 1.12fr);
  gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 4rem);
  align-items: center;
  min-height: min(78vh, 820px);
}

.hero-copy {
  padding: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 2rem) 0;
}

.hero h1,
.page h1 {
  margin: 0;
  max-width: 920px;
  font-size: clamp(2.45rem, 6vw, 5.7rem);
  line-height: 1.02;
  letter-spacing: -0.045em;
  color: var(--ink);
}

.eyebrow {
  margin: 0 0 1rem;
  color: var(--accent);
  font: 700 .78rem/1.2 system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: .15em;
}

.lede {
  max-width: 760px;
  font-size: clamp(1.08rem, 2vw, 1.35rem);
  color: var(--muted);
}

.hero-image {
  margin: 0;
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  overflow: hidden;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  background: var(--soft);
  aspect-ratio: 4 / 3;
}

.hero-image img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
}

.actions {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: .85rem;
  margin-top: 2rem;
}

.button {
  display: inline-flex;
  justify-content: center;
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 44px;
  padding: .9rem 1.2rem;
  border-radius: 999px;
  background: var(--accent);
  color: #fff;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  font-weight: 700;
  text-align: center;
}

.button.secondary {
  background: transparent;
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  border: 1px solid var(--accent);
}

.intro-strip {
  background: var(--green);
  color: #fff;
  padding: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 3rem) var(--page-pad);
  text-align: center;
}

.intro-strip p {
  max-width: 900px;
  margin: 0 auto;
  font-size: clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 2.2rem);
  line-height: 1.25;
}

.feature-grid,
.page,
.callout,
.text-grid,
.retake-list {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: var(--section-y) var(--page-pad);
}

.feature-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.25rem);
}

.feature-card {
  background: var(--card);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  overflow: hidden;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-soft);
}

.feature-card.large {
  grid-column: 1 / -1;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.3fr) minmax(320px, .7fr);
}

.feature-card img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  min-height: clamp(240px, 34vw, 360px);
  object-fit: cover;
}

.feature-card div {
  padding: clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 2rem);
}

.feature-card h2,
.media-block h2,
.callout h2,
.text-grid h2,
.notice h2,
.retake-list h2 {
  margin-top: 0;
  line-height: 1.08;
  font-size: clamp(1.45rem, 3vw, 2.35rem);
}

.feature-card a {
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  font-weight: 700;
}

.page-header {
  margin-bottom: clamp(1.75rem, 4vw, 3rem);
}

.media-block {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.08fr) minmax(280px, .92fr);
  gap: clamp(1.25rem, 4vw, 3rem);
  align-items: center;
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem) 0;
}

.media-block.reverse {
  grid-template-columns: minmax(280px, .92fr) minmax(0, 1.08fr);
}

.media-block.reverse img {
  order: 2;
}

.media-block > img,
.full-bleed-image img,
.gallery-grid img {
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: var(--soft);
}

.media-block > img {
  width: 100%;
  aspect-ratio: 4 / 3;
  object-fit: cover;
}

.full-bleed-image {
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem) 0;
}

.full-bleed-image img {
  width: 100%;
  max-height: 720px;
  aspect-ratio: 16 / 9;
  object-fit: cover;
}

.gallery-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(4, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(.75rem, 2vw, 1rem);
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem) 0;
}

.gallery-grid figure {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--card);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  overflow: hidden;
}

.gallery-grid img {
  width: 100%;
  aspect-ratio: 1 / 1;
  object-fit: cover;
  border: 0;
  border-radius: 0;
  box-shadow: none;
}

figcaption {
  padding: 1rem;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: .95rem;
}

.callout,
.notice,
.retake-list,
.text-grid article {
  background: var(--card);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-soft);
}

.callout {
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 5rem) auto;
}

.text-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 1.25rem);
  padding-top: 0;
}

.text-grid article {
  padding: clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 1.75rem);
}

.notice {
  padding: clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 1.75rem);
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem) 0;
}

.retake-list {
  margin-top: 2rem;
}

.small-note {
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: .95rem;
}

.site-footer {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 2rem;
  padding: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3rem) clamp(1rem, 4vw, 4rem);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: #efe4d6;
  color: var(--muted);
}

.site-footer strong {
  color: var(--ink);
}

.site-footer p {
  margin: .25rem 0 0;
  max-width: 520px;
}

.site-footer nav {
  align-content: flex-start;
}

@media (max-width: 1100px) {
  .hero-split {
    grid-template-columns: minmax(0, .95fr) minmax(320px, 1.05fr);
  }

  .gallery-grid {
    grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr));
  }
}

@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .site-header,
  .site-footer {
    align-items: flex-start;
    flex-direction: column;
  }

  .site-header {
    gap: .85rem;
  }

  .site-header nav {
    width: 100%;
    justify-content: flex-start;
  }

  .hero-split,
  .feature-card.large,
  .media-block,
  .media-block.reverse,
  .text-grid {
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
  }

  .hero-split {
    min-height: 0;
  }

  .feature-grid {
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
  }

  .media-block.reverse img {
    order: 0;
  }

  .gallery-grid {
    grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));
  }
}

@media (max-width: 680px) {
  .site-header {
    position: static;
    padding-inline: 1rem;
  }

  .site-header nav {
    flex-wrap: nowrap;
    overflow-x: auto;
    gap: .65rem;
    padding: .2rem 0 .45rem;
    scrollbar-width: thin;
    -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
  }

  .site-header nav a {
    flex: 0 0 auto;
    padding: .5rem .65rem;
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 999px;
    background: rgba(255, 253, 248, .7);
    font-size: .9rem;
  }

  .hero {
    padding: 1rem;
  }

  .hero h1,
  .page h1 {
    font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 13vw, 3.4rem);
    letter-spacing: -0.055em;
  }

  .lede {
    font-size: 1.06rem;
  }

  .actions {
    margin-top: 1.5rem;
  }

  .button {
    width: 100%;
  }

  .hero-image,
  .media-block > img,
  .full-bleed-image img {
    aspect-ratio: 4 / 3;
  }

  .feature-card img {
    height: auto;
    min-height: 0;
    aspect-ratio: 4 / 3;
  }

  .feature-card.large {
    display: block;
  }

  .feature-card.large > div {
    position: relative;
    z-index: 1;
    background: var(--card);
  }

  .feature-grid,
  .page,
  .callout,
  .text-grid,
  .retake-list {
    padding-inline: 1rem;
  }

  .site-footer nav {
    gap: .65rem .85rem;
  }
}

@media (max-width: 420px) {
  .brand span {
    font-size: 1.08rem;
  }

  .brand small {
    font-size: .62rem;
  }

  .intro-strip p {
    font-size: 1.15rem;
  }

  .gallery-grid {
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
  }

  .feature-card div,
  .text-grid article,
  .notice {
    padding: 1.1rem;
  }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html {
    scroll-behavior: auto;
  }
}


/* Long-form editorial and guest guide pages */
.longform {
  max-width: 980px;
}

.longform .article-section,
.longform .notice {
  max-width: 860px;
  margin-left: auto;
  margin-right: auto;
}

.longform .article-section p,
.longform .notice p {
  font-size: 1.06rem;
}

.longform h2 {
  margin-top: 0;
}

.places-list article,
.suggested-routes {
  padding-top: 1.1rem;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
}

.places-list article + article {
  margin-top: 1.25rem;
}

.places-list h3,
.suggested-routes h3 {
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  margin-bottom: 0.5rem;
}

.private-note {
  border-left: 4px solid var(--accent);
}

.guide-links ul {
  padding-left: 1.2rem;
}

.guide-links a {
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  font-weight: 700;
}

.story-intro img {
  object-position: center;
}

@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .longform .article-section p,
  .longform .notice p {
    font-size: 1rem;
  }

  .places-list article,
  .suggested-routes {
    padding-top: 0.9rem;
  }
}


/* Guest guide pages */
.guest-page .article-section {
  max-width: 860px;
  margin: clamp(1.6rem, 4vw, 3rem) auto;
}

.article-section h2 {
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  margin-bottom: 0.75rem;
}

.article-section ul,
.article-section ol {
  padding-left: 1.35rem;
}

.article-section li + li {
  margin-top: 0.25rem;
}

.guide-nav {
  max-width: 980px;
  margin: 0 auto clamp(1.75rem, 4vw, 3rem);
  padding: 0.75rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  background: rgba(255, 253, 248, 0.78);
  justify-content: flex-start;
  gap: .55rem;
}

.guide-nav a {
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 38px;
  padding: .45rem .75rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: 999px;
  background: var(--card);
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  font-weight: 650;
  text-decoration: none;
}

.guide-nav a:hover,
.guide-nav a[aria-current="page"] {
  color: #fff;
  background: var(--accent);
  border-color: var(--accent);
  text-decoration: none;
}

.photo-card {
  max-width: 980px;
  margin: clamp(1.4rem, 4vw, 2.5rem) auto;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  overflow: hidden;
  background: var(--card);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-soft);
}

.photo-card img {
  width: 100%;
  aspect-ratio: 16 / 10;
  object-fit: cover;
}

.photo-card figcaption {
  color: var(--muted);
  background: var(--card);
}

.guide-photo-grid {
  max-width: 980px;
  margin: clamp(1.4rem, 4vw, 2.5rem) auto;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(.85rem, 2vw, 1.2rem);
}

.guide-photo-grid .photo-card {
  margin: 0;
}

.credential {
  display: inline-block;
  padding: .55rem .75rem;
  border-radius: 10px;
  background: var(--soft);
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  font-family: ui-monospace, SFMono-Regular, Menlo, Monaco, Consolas, "Liberation Mono", monospace;
  font-size: 1rem;
}

.guest-index-grid {
  padding-top: 0;
}

.guest-index-grid a {
  color: var(--accent-dark);
  text-decoration: none;
}

.guest-index-grid a:hover {
  text-decoration: underline;
}

@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .guide-photo-grid {
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
  }

  .guide-nav {
    flex-wrap: nowrap;
    overflow-x: auto;
    -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
  }

  .guide-nav a {
    flex: 0 0 auto;
  }

  .photo-card img {
    aspect-ratio: 4 / 3;
  }
}


/* SEO / conversion additions */
.faq-list {
  max-width: 900px;
  margin: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 4rem) auto;
  padding: clamp(1.25rem, 3vw, 2rem);
  background: var(--card);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-soft);
}

.faq-list h2 {
  margin-top: 0;
  font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 3.5vw, 2.6rem);
  line-height: 1.08;
}

.faq-list article {
  padding-top: 1rem;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
}

.faq-list article + article {
  margin-top: 1rem;
}

.faq-list h3 {
  margin: 0 0 .35rem;
  font-size: 1.1rem;
  line-height: 1.25;
}

.faq-list p {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--muted);
}

.public-cta {
  text-align: left;
}